Article by Lisa Gerard Sharp. Tourism to Italy is bouncing back slowly but what can visitors expect in “the new Italy?”
Aside from wishing to feel safe, we need to know that the Italy we love is still there, beneath that jaunty mask. Art-lovers wish to know if the great galleries are open. Foodies want to feel that eating in a trusty trattoria is still pleasurable, despite social distancing. Above all, we want to know if the languorous Italian lifestyle has survived this seismic shift in perception.
Don’t listen to the doomsters: Italy is recognisably Italy yet feels far safer than England. The smoothness of the visitor experience is reassuring. Italian post-pandemic health and safety policies are far more coherent than in the UK and have met with general acceptance. It goes without saying that you should always use the services of a specialist tour operator or villa specialist to Italy to ensure an extra layer of safety and reassurance, who you can contact for assistance and advice before and during trip. For more on why and when to book an Italian holiday, see Blog “Travel to Italy Post Pandemic For Italian Holidays”
Fans of Italy can finally plan a return now that England, at least, has dropped its damaging stance on quarantine and permits travel once more. Naturally, visitors still need to be convinced that it will be a true holiday, with a sense of safety matched by the wealth of experiences that make the country beloved by the British. Let’s unpack the new norms to discover the subtle shifts that set the scene for this same-but-different holiday experience.
How safe are the new norms?
Photo credit: Lisa Gerard Sharp
Sensible measures have already been implemented and a recovery is underway. Compared with Britain, in Italy there is far greater acceptance of the importance of wearing masks, not just because masks are mandatory in shops, on public transport and in indoor public spaces, such as museums, or in public areas of hotels. Masks are also worn outdoors when social distancing measures are not possible. What’s more, masks are readily available at pharmacies and supermarkets, and at controlled prices for basic masks.
In Italy, antibacterial hand gels are readily available at low prices while free hand sanitiser is available at most shop entrances. For some time, free, single-use plastic gloves were compulsory in shops but are less common now, though used in circumstances in which hand sanitiser is not possible.
Confidence is slowly returning to society, helped by hot weather and the Italian love of the outdoor lifestyle. From drinking cocktails to dining out, life is far more fun alfresco, and safer too. On café terraces, the social distancing is usually far greater than the mandatory one-metre minimum stipulated by the law. Outdoors, people literally breathe more freely. Cafes on seafront or mountain restaurants with terraces are particularly prized.
What about beaches, bars and restaurants?
The beach season is definitely underway, even if dominated by domestic tourism. Efficient social-distancing measures are in force in beach clubs, providing a more relaxing experience than usual, with sunbathers not packed in like sardines, and plenty of space at outdoor beach bars and restaurants. More space means more privacy as well as greater safety. As a result, beaches have become more of a pleasure, with the typical regimented lines of beach umbrellas far more tolerable than before. Not just are there fewer pesky trinket-sellers than usual but there is less chance of being deafened by a noisy conversation from an Italian matron on the neighbouring sun-lounger.
Bars and restaurants have been open since 18th May, with efficient social distancing measures and even shielding to separate customers. Masks are mandatory for waiting staff but not for clients, unless walking around the restaurant, including using the bathroom. The economic downturn provoked by the pandemic has made restaurants feel more of a luxury so, outside weekends, space is at a premium. Again, fewer clients mean more personal service.
Commercial life has well and truly restarted, with social life following suit. Cultural life is lagging behind, reflecting most people’s priorities and concerns, with safety paramount. Luckily, given the Italian climate, most concerts and events can take place outdoors, whether in city squares or villa gardens. Other major events have been shifted to the autumn, as in the case of Turin’s major festivals, from its contemporary art fair to its Slow Food festival.
What about museums, galleries and great archaeological sites?
Many museums and galleries have re-opened, with restricted numbers along with new social distancing measures. The same is true of the great archaeological sites, including those in Sicily and Rome. Some museums are doing their utmost to make collections accessible to the culture-starved masses, a compensation for the lengthy lockdown. In Milan, the wonderful Brera, the city’s greatest art collection, offers free entry all summer.
In many regions, museum and gallery reservations need to be made online, a mechanism used to ensure that numbers are kept down and social-distancing guaranteed. This applies to two world-class museums, the Vatican Museums in Rome and the Uffizi Galleries in Florence, both of which are dramatically reducing visitor numbers. In certain other major museums, visitors must wear distance-monitoring bracelets. On the other hand, Italy’s art cities are virtually open-air museums so even exploring without visiting art galleries can be a joy. This is true not just of “blockbuster” cities such as Venice, Florence and Rome, but also reflects the reality in Bologna and Mantua, Perugia and Palermo, Siena and Assisi.
What are Italian regions doing differently?
Visitors will see some regional differences beyond a big, shared commitment to social distancing and mask-wearing. In Lombardy, the region hardest-hit by the pandemic, restrictions govern the size of guided tours and the number of coach passengers. In Sicily, using a contact-tracing app is compulsory. In Trentino, Covid protocols are coherent, with downloadable safety guides on the tourist board’s website (in English) and on the ground, standardised signposting denoting safe-distancing.
As everywhere, public transport has been hit hard by the Virus so be prepared for reduced services, linked both to social-distancing measures and a fall in demand. Passengers wishing to board trains or ferries might have to face temperature checks. Ferries between islands may be operating reduced services, though that will improve in response to demand. For local advice, visitors would also be well-advised to check the regional tourism websites, as well as the Italian Tourist Board site, which lists national safety regulations, sector by sector.
Villa holidays or hotels?
The hospitality sector restarted swiftly, despite many of the country’s most gorgeous hotels and villas re-opening with trepidation. Villa holidays are in vogue post-lockdown and respond to our fragile desire for a bespoke experience far from the crowds. Suitable for couples, families or multi-generational holidays, villas favour flexible living and the option to stay put or explore the art cities from the safety of a rural retreat.
Luxury hoteliers admit that it will be a strange season and even in tourist hotspots such as Lake Como, Capri, Venice and Rome, they might struggle with courting their core clientele. Some hoteliers are re-opening on a smaller scale or trusting that the longer summer season will offset losses. Hotels in seaside and mountain resorts enjoy an advantage over city rivals by being able to offer a sense of space and freedom, or the illusion of it, at least. Instead, city hotels are getting creative, offering fully personalised service in Milan, Mantua and Matera. As for beleaguered Venice, hoteliers are promising a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the lagoon city without the crowds.
At every level, the best hoteliers and villa-owners are showing that famed Italian flexibility and ingenuity in turning a crisis into an opportunity. Cases in point include art city hotels offering free private guides or a Michelin-starred Dolomites hotel offering new foraging-in-the-mountains forays. However, if the thought of staying in a hotel, even with some of these amazing ‘extras’ does not tempt you, then villas will, which allow for natural self-distancing and create a safe bubble for guests in search of serenity and bespoke services.
Is there a true tourism revival?
Photo credit: Lisa Gerard Sharp
Ultimately, there is room for optimism about an Italian resurgence this year. Italy is an appealing option for travellers looking for an autumn escape, whether short-breakers, culture-loving couples, the active retired or families without school-age children. The Italian Tourist Board would love to see a return to the cities but the more rural areas beckon in the short-term.
With so much seductive scenery in Italy, social-distancing is far easier than in most of the UK. Safer-seeming holiday options range from luxury villa breaks in Tuscany and Umbria to authentic farm-stays in rural Sicily, fortified manors in Puglia, hideaways in the Italian lakes, or in the Unesco-listed Trentino Dolomites, a foretaste of the ski season to come.
Whether in Liguria, Tuscany, Umbria or Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy is riddled with great hiking trails, which can combine forays to foodie haunts and wine estates. Yes, you might well have to pre-book visits to wine estates but this is a small price to pay for a safety-conscious experience, with more personalised service than usual.
Not that it’s a doomy picture in the major art cities and medieval hilltop towns. Italophiles who have most suffered from cabin fever and lockdown lethargy could be tempted by cultural city breaks, safe in the knowledge that those cities will never be emptier than this year. Culture-lovers can explore the Sicilian archaeological sites without the crowds, or see Venice devoid of day-tripping cruise passengers. History-lovers can lap up the Roman sites in all their aloof glory, and take in a once-in-a-lifetime Raphael exhibition in Rome. The capital’s most resonant sites, from the Colosseum onwards, are far quieter. In high season, the Pantheon once welcomed 3,000 visitors a day but now only accepts 80 at a time.
In these turbulent times, we need Italy as much as Italy needs us. Greater peace of mind is guaranteed by travelling through a trusted ABTOI tour operator, you can find a full list here with all their details. Italy can still deliver the dream, whatever form the dream takes. Ultimately, Italy is still Italy. Breathe in deeply – and book.
Main photo credit: Su Gologne
The beach season is definitely underway, even if dominated by domestic tourism. Efficient social-distancing measures are in force in beach clubs, providing a more relaxing experience than usual, with sunbathers not packed in like sardines, and plenty of space at outdoor beach bars and restaurants. More space means more privacy as well as greater safety. As a result, beaches have become more of a pleasure, with the typical regimented lines of beach umbrellas far more tolerable than before. Not just are there fewer pesky trinket-sellers than usual but there is less chance of being deafened by a noisy conversation from an Italian matron on the neighbouring sun-lounger.
Bars and restaurants have been open since 18th May, with efficient social distancing measures and even shielding to separate customers. Masks are mandatory for waiting staff but not for clients, unless walking around the restaurant, including using the bathroom. The economic downturn provoked by the pandemic has made restaurants feel more of a luxury so, outside weekends, space is at a premium. Again, fewer clients mean more personal service.
Commercial life has well and truly restarted, with social life following suit. Cultural life is lagging behind, reflecting most people’s priorities and concerns, with safety paramount. Luckily, given the Italian climate, most concerts and events can take place outdoors, whether in city squares or villa gardens. Other major events have been shifted to the autumn, as in the case of Turin’s major festivals, from its contemporary art fair to its Slow Food festival.
What about museums, galleries and great archaeological sites?
Many museums and galleries have re-opened, with restricted numbers along with new social distancing measures. The same is true of the great archaeological sites, including those in Sicily and Rome. Some museums are doing their utmost to make collections accessible to the culture-starved masses, a compensation for the lengthy lockdown. In Milan, the wonderful Brera, the city’s greatest art collection, offers free entry all summer.
In many regions, museum and gallery reservations need to be made online, a mechanism used to ensure that numbers are kept down and social-distancing guaranteed. This applies to two world-class museums, the Vatican Museums in Rome and the Uffizi Galleries in Florence, both of which are dramatically reducing visitor numbers. In certain other major museums, visitors must wear distance-monitoring bracelets. On the other hand, Italy’s art cities are virtually open-air museums so even exploring without visiting art galleries can be a joy. This is true not just of “blockbuster” cities such as Venice, Florence and Rome, but also reflects the reality in Bologna and Mantua, Perugia and Palermo, Siena and Assisi.
What are Italian regions doing differently?
Visitors will see some regional differences beyond a big, shared commitment to social distancing and mask-wearing. In Lombardy, the region hardest-hit by the pandemic, restrictions govern the size of guided tours and the number of coach passengers. In Sicily, using a contact-tracing app is compulsory. In Trentino, Covid protocols are coherent, with downloadable safety guides on the tourist board’s website (in English) and on the ground, standardised signposting denoting safe-distancing.
As everywhere, public transport has been hit hard by the Virus so be prepared for reduced services, linked both to social-distancing measures and a fall in demand. Passengers wishing to board trains or ferries might have to face temperature checks. Ferries between islands may be operating reduced services, though that will improve in response to demand. For local advice, visitors would also be well-advised to check the regional tourism websites, as well as the Italian Tourist Board site, which lists national safety regulations, sector by sector. Once again, Italian adaptability is to the fore, supported by sustained knowledge of the pandemic.
Villa holidays or hotels?
The hospitality sector restarted swiftly, despite many of the country’s most gorgeous hotels and villas re-opening with trepidation. Villa holidays are in vogue post-lockdown and respond to our fragile desire for a bespoke experience far from the crowds. Suitable for couples, families or multi-generational holidays, villas favour flexible living and the option to stay put or explore the art cities from the safety of a rural retreat.
Not that the hospitality sector has rebounded. Off-the-record, luxury hoteliers admit that it will be a strange season, with the core clientele mostly staying away, even in tourist hotspots such as Lake Como, Capri, Venice and Rome. Even if the British are belatedly being allowed to travel, the Swiss and Austrians still seem fearful while the Americans are banned from entering the European Union. Wearing masks in public spaces does impinge on the low-key luxury mood that fuels the dolce vita dream. It’s hard to feel carefree when a mask is a constant reminder of danger and disease lurking around every corner.
Even so, an attitude of doom and gloom is a luxury for hoteliers trying to stay afloat. Some have compromised, re-opening on a smaller scale or trusting that the longer summer season will offset losses. Hotels in seaside and mountain resorts enjoy an advantage over city rivals by being able to offer a sense of space and freedom, or the illusion of it, at least. Instead, city hotels are getting creative, offering fully personalised service in Milan, Mantua and Matera. As for beleaguered Venice, hoteliers are promising a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the lagoon city without the crowds.
At every level, the best hoteliers and villa-owners are showing that famed Italian flexibility and ingenuity in turning a crisis into an opportunity. Cases in point include art city hotels offering free private guides or a Michelin-starred Dolomites hotel offering new foraging-in-the-mountains forays. Conversely, doom and gloom in the hotel sector can mean opportunity for villa-holiday providers. Cocooning villas allow for natural self-distancing and create a safe bubble for guests in search of serenity and bespoke services.
Is there a true tourism revival?
Ultimately, there is room for optimism about an Italian resurgence this year. Italy is an appealing option for travellers looking for an autumn escape, whether short-breakers, culture-loving couples, the active retired or families without school-age children. The Italian Tourist Board would love to see a return to the cities but the countryside beckons in the short-term.
A straw poll conducted among my international friends, well beyond fellow travel-writers, sees that virtually all are travelling around Italy already or happy to do so as soon as allowed. Even those deemed slightly at risk are returning but taking stricter precautions, including limiting social contact, travelling to the destination by car, mixing with fewer friends, or choosing a villa that naturally favours space, serenity and social distancing.
With so much seductive scenery in Italy, social-distancing is far easier than in most of the UK. Safer-seeming holiday options range from luxury villa breaks in Tuscany and Umbria to authentic farm-stays in rural Sicily, fortified manors in Puglia, hideaways in the Italian lakes, or in the Unesco-listed Trentino Dolomites, a foretaste of the ski season to come.
Whether in Liguria, Tuscany, Umbria or Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy is riddled with great hiking trails, which can combine forays to foodie haunts and wine estates. Yes, you might well have to pre-book visits to wine estates but this is a small price to pay for a safety-conscious experience, with more personalised service than usual.
Not that it’s a doomy picture in the major art cities and medieval hilltop towns. Italophiles who have most suffered from cabin fever and lockdown lethargy could be tempted by cultural city breaks, safe in the knowledge that those cities will never be emptier than this year. Culture-lovers can explore the Sicilian archaeological sites without the crowds, or see Venice devoid of day-tripping cruise passengers. History-lovers can lap up the Roman sites in all their aloof glory, and take in a once-in-a-lifetime Raphael exhibition in Rome. The capital’s most resonant sites, from the Colosseum onwards, are far quieter. In high season, the Pantheon once welcomed 3,000 visitors a day but now only accepts 80 at a time.
In these turbulent times, we need Italy as much as Italy needs us. Greater peace of mind is guaranteed by travelling through a trusted tour operator. Italy can still deliver the dream, whatever form the dream takes. Ultimately, Italy is still Italy. Breathe in deeply – and book.